| Day | Where | What you do |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Chengdu | People's Park tea house, mapo tofu, night market |
| 2 | Chengdu | Panda base at opening, dan dan noodles, hotpot |
| 3 | Chengdu | Day trip or a slow day of snacks |
| 4 | Chengdu → Chongqing | 1h20 high-speed train, Hongyadong at night |
| 5 | Chongqing | Xiao mian breakfast, chuanchuan, cable car |
Pace: Slow — food is the itinerary.
The short answer
Order the two-flavour pot (鸳鸯锅), dip everything in sesame oil, and learn the word 微辣 — then double it. Chengdu is the gentler, tea-house version of Sichuan cooking; Chongqing is the original and hotter, built on beef fat and old oil. Five days between them, with the 1h20 train in the middle, is the right shape.
- Hotpot is paid per person for the base plus per plate; budget ¥80–150 per head.
- "Mild" in Sichuan is still hot by any international standard. Say 不辣 if you mean it.
- Street stalls are QR-only. No phone, no lunch — set up payment before you arrive.
Chengdu vs Chongqing: what actually changes
They share a flavour grammar — chilli, Sichuan peppercorn, fermented bean paste, beef fat — but they are not the same kitchen. Chengdu is softer and more layered: more sweetness, more tea houses, more dishes you can eat with rice. Chongqing is louder and blunter: heavier beef fat, more numbing, breakfast noodles eaten standing up.
If you only have three days, pick one city and eat properly. If you have five, do Chengdu first — it calibrates you — then Chongqing, which will feel like the volume being turned up.
Hotpot, without the guesswork
Hotpot is a social format, not a dish. You order a base, you order raw plates, you cook them yourself, and you pay for what you take. Four things decide whether the meal works.
- Order 鸳鸯锅 (yuānyāng guō) — the two-flavour pot. Half red oil, half clear broth. Nobody will think less of you. It is the default order for mixed groups of Chinese friends too.
- Build a dip at the sauce bar. Sesame oil (香油) is the base — it coats the food and physically carries the capsaicin away. Add garlic, coriander, a splash of vinegar, maybe oyster sauce. Skip the chilli oil if you are already struggling.
- Cook in order. Vegetables and tofu last, because they absorb everything. Meat and offal first, 10–20 seconds for thin slices. If you leave something in, it becomes inedible rather than overcooked.
- Do not drink the broth. It is a cooking medium that has been reducing for an hour. Locals drink soy milk or iced tea.
微辣 is not mild
In Sichuan, 微辣 (wēi là) means "mild for people who eat this every day". If you are not used to it, order 不辣 (bù là) — you will still get a fragrant, peppercorn-and-garlic broth, just without the burn. Saying 微辣 when you mean "no heat" is the single most common food mistake visitors make, and it is not the restaurant's fault.
On "old oil" (老油)
Traditional Chongqing hotpot reuses a settled, re-boiled base — that is where the depth comes from, and it is what locals mean by 老油. Standards have tightened and many chains now use single-use base, but small old-school shops still advertise the traditional method. If reused oil bothers you, ask for 一次性锅底 (single-use base) or eat at a chain.
Chengdu: what to order
| Dish | Chinese | What it is | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mapo tofu | 麻婆豆腐 | Silken tofu, minced pork, chilli bean paste. The tingle is má (麻) — Sichuan peppercorn, not heat. | ¥25–40 |
| Kung pao chicken | 宫保鸡丁 | Diced chicken, peanuts, dried chilli. Less sweet and far more numbing than the Western takeaway version. | ¥35–55 |
| Dan dan noodles | 担担面 | Small bowl, minced pork, preserved vegetables, chilli oil. Eat it before the oil settles. | ¥12–18 |
| Twice-cooked pork | 回锅肉 | The home dish of Sichuan: pork belly boiled then stir-fried with leek and bean paste. | ¥40–60 |
| Cold skin noodles | 凉皮 / 凉面 | Cooling, vinegary, the thing you want at 3pm in August. | ¥10–15 |
Tea houses. People's Park (人民公园) is the ritual: a bamboo chair, a covered gaiwan, a refill for as long as you sit. Around ¥30 buys you the seat for hours, and nobody will move you along. This is not a tourist attraction that happens to serve tea — it is how the city spends an afternoon.
Pandas. The breeding base opens at 07:30 and the animals are active for about the first ninety minutes. Arrive at opening or do not bother. Book through the official account; the queue at the gate in high season is an hour long.
Chongqing: what to order
| Dish | Chinese | What it is | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chongqing hotpot | 重庆火锅 | Beef-fat base, whole dried chillies, heavy on the peppercorn. The hottest mainstream hotpot in China. | ¥80–150 pp |
| Xiao mian | 小面 | Breakfast noodles: chilli oil, garlic water, ground peanuts, greens. Eaten on a plastic stool at 7am. | ¥10–15 |
| Chuan chuan | 串串香 | Skewers you cook yourself in a shared pot, paid per stick at the end. The cheapest way to try twenty things. | ¥0.5–2 / stick |
| Wanzhou grilled fish | 万州烤鱼 | Whole fish grilled then simmered in a chilli tray with vegetables. Order for two. | ¥90–140 |
| Suancai fish | 酸菜鱼 | Pickled-cabbage broth with white fish. The "not spicy" option that still tastes like Sichuan. | ¥70–110 |
Chuan chuan arithmetic
At 串串香 you keep your own sticks and they are counted at the till. Some shops count by weight instead. Ask 怎么算 (zěnme suàn — "how do you count?") before you start, and keep your empty sticks in the cup they give you rather than dropping them on the floor, or you will be charged for the table next door's dinner.
Surviving the spice
- Drink milk or soy milk, not water. Water spreads capsaicin around your mouth; fat lifts it off. Yoghurt works too.
- Eat rice with everything. A bowl of plain rice is the standard local mitigation, not a sign of weakness.
- Ask for a bowl of plain broth (清汤) and rinse food in it if a dish is beyond you. Restaurants do this without comment.
- Distinguish má from là. 麻 is the peppercorn tingle; 辣 is chilli heat. If the tingle is the problem, ask for 少麻 (shǎo má — less peppercorn), which is a different request from less chilli.
- Bring loperamide. A sudden change to a high-fat, high-capsaicin diet upsets most stomachs for a day. Plan a light day, not a hospital visit.
Ordering with no Chinese
Four phrases cover almost everything. Show the screen; do not attempt the tones under noise.
| Situation | Show this | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| You cannot handle heat | 我不太能吃辣,请做不辣。谢谢! | I can't eat spicy food — please make it without chilli. Thank you. |
| You want the split pot | 要鸳鸯锅 | We'd like the two-flavour pot. |
| You need the bill | 买单 | The bill, please. |
| You want it without coriander | 不要香菜 | No coriander. |
The phrase cards tool has these with audio and a full-screen mode for showing across a table.
Where this route goes wrong
| What happens | Why | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| The "mild" hotpot is inedible | 微辣 is calibrated for locals | Order 鸳鸯锅 and 不辣 on the clear half, or ask for 清汤 base. |
| Bill is higher than expected | Per-person base charge, sauce-bar fee, napkins, tea | Expect ¥10–20 in extras per head. Not a scam, just not itemised for you. |
| Card refused at a street stall | Personal QR codes cannot take foreign-card funding | Carry ¥100–200 cash, or eat where they can scan your payment code. |
| Ordered a kilo of meat by accident | Some menus price by 斤 (jīn, 500g) rather than per portion | Ask 一份 (yī fèn — one portion) instead of pointing at a weight. |
| Chongqing is all stairs | The city is built on a ridge; "200m away" can be 12 floors of steps | Use the metro, allow double the walking time, and pack light shoes. |
What it costs
| Style | Per day | Five days | What that buys |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | ¥300–450 | ¥1,500–2,250 | Hostel, street food and one hotpot, metro only |
| Mid | ¥600–850 | ¥3,000–4,250 | 3-star hotel, two restaurant meals a day, some taxis |
| Comfortable | ¥1,300+ | ¥6,500+ | 4-star, named restaurants every night, private transfers |
The train between the two cities is about 1h20 and roughly ¥154 second class. Food is the cheap part of this trip; accommodation in Chengdu near Taikoo Li is the expensive part.
Last reviewed 2026-11-06 — rules and prices in China change often. Confirm critical details in the app or on the official site before you rely on them.
Official sources used for this guide
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